Mackenzie
I'm hoping to purchase two rats soon, and I want to make sure. I have every thing.
Food-
Harlan Teklan Lab Blocks
Apples
Vegetables
Cage-
Three-story metal ferret cage.
Travel cage
Travel bag
Toys-
3 Chewing Blocks
Ropes (safe)
Solid Wheel
Tubes and Tunnels
Bells
(Other)
Bedding-
Shaved Aspen Bedding
Nesting Material (What kind should I get????)
Care-
Pet Safe Cage Cleaner
Pet Safe Deodorizer
Litter Pan/Tray
Premium Ferret Litter (Recyled Newspaper pellets- any cheaper alternatives?)
Furnishings-
Hammock
Ferret Ship Hideout
Small Animal Bed
Super Pet Igloo
Water thing (forgot what it is called)
Rats-
Neutered Female, Male
Is that all?
Tips?
Thanks!
Answer
Food - make sure you get 18%+ protein for young rats, and 14-16% for adults. Males should have lower protein than females. This is important. Research foods that they can eat (and can't eat) so you have a more direct list of treats and such. Not just "apples and vegetables"!
Cage - Make sure the cage is at least 30x18x24 inches. Double check the bar spacing, because a lot of ferret cages have large bar spacing. Which isn't suitable for babies and/or many females. You want something closer to half an inch. Wire grated floors MUST be covered. Make sure the doors are nice and big so you can reach all corners of the cage. I would also invest in a proper travel cage - like a solid cat carrier - that they can't easily chew through (as opposed to a fabric or cloth "bag"). Also invest in a slightly smaller hospital cage in case of injury or illness that requires them to be less mobile.
Toys - As many as you can get, get. Wood gets destroyed quickly (at least with my girls) so provide more than just a few chewing blocks. Check out dog and cat and bird toys. Anything goes as long as it isn't catnip, cuttle bone, calcium edibles, etc. Nylabones are safe, though.
Bedding - Aspen is perfectly safe, if not a little dusty. I've heard more rats have issues with Carefresh than Aspen to be honest. It's Pine and Cedar that are dangerous - softwoods contain strong phenols that are abrasvie and toxic to rodents' respiratory tracts. Aspen and hardwoods tend to be safe, though. As for nesting stuff, a lot of people like the Eco-Bedding (or Carefresh Crinkles). Some people make their own (shredded plain paper, tissues, paper towels, etc). Just AVOID any cotton-y stuff that can wrap around limbs.
Care - I use vinegar/water/dishsoap to clean cages instead of the spray stuff sold at stores. Cheaper and just as safe for the rats. I couldn't stand the smell of the cleaner, either. Be careful with deodorizers - anything scented can irritate lungs. I wouldn't spray ANYTHING near the cage. Also be careful about putting stuff in water (like those drops that supposedly neutralize urine odors) as you wouldn't want to turn them off of drinking because it tastes weird.
Furnishings - Be aware that anything you put in the cage is fair game to be destroyed. I stopped buying fancy/cutesy stuff for my rats because it would always be demolished within a few days.
Rats - female would be spayed, not neutered, and please be sure you trust the source (or get it done yourself). it's very hard to tell if a female has been spayed. Easier to tell if a male has been neutered.
Food - make sure you get 18%+ protein for young rats, and 14-16% for adults. Males should have lower protein than females. This is important. Research foods that they can eat (and can't eat) so you have a more direct list of treats and such. Not just "apples and vegetables"!
Cage - Make sure the cage is at least 30x18x24 inches. Double check the bar spacing, because a lot of ferret cages have large bar spacing. Which isn't suitable for babies and/or many females. You want something closer to half an inch. Wire grated floors MUST be covered. Make sure the doors are nice and big so you can reach all corners of the cage. I would also invest in a proper travel cage - like a solid cat carrier - that they can't easily chew through (as opposed to a fabric or cloth "bag"). Also invest in a slightly smaller hospital cage in case of injury or illness that requires them to be less mobile.
Toys - As many as you can get, get. Wood gets destroyed quickly (at least with my girls) so provide more than just a few chewing blocks. Check out dog and cat and bird toys. Anything goes as long as it isn't catnip, cuttle bone, calcium edibles, etc. Nylabones are safe, though.
Bedding - Aspen is perfectly safe, if not a little dusty. I've heard more rats have issues with Carefresh than Aspen to be honest. It's Pine and Cedar that are dangerous - softwoods contain strong phenols that are abrasvie and toxic to rodents' respiratory tracts. Aspen and hardwoods tend to be safe, though. As for nesting stuff, a lot of people like the Eco-Bedding (or Carefresh Crinkles). Some people make their own (shredded plain paper, tissues, paper towels, etc). Just AVOID any cotton-y stuff that can wrap around limbs.
Care - I use vinegar/water/dishsoap to clean cages instead of the spray stuff sold at stores. Cheaper and just as safe for the rats. I couldn't stand the smell of the cleaner, either. Be careful with deodorizers - anything scented can irritate lungs. I wouldn't spray ANYTHING near the cage. Also be careful about putting stuff in water (like those drops that supposedly neutralize urine odors) as you wouldn't want to turn them off of drinking because it tastes weird.
Furnishings - Be aware that anything you put in the cage is fair game to be destroyed. I stopped buying fancy/cutesy stuff for my rats because it would always be demolished within a few days.
Rats - female would be spayed, not neutered, and please be sure you trust the source (or get it done yourself). it's very hard to tell if a female has been spayed. Easier to tell if a male has been neutered.
how do i take care of a hermit crab?
Justin Ras
please help!!!!!!!
Answer
Wow okay, first of all let me correct the answer before me, they are NOT boring. If you treat them properly which clearly you DON'T by what you just answered, they are very active animals and a joy to have. Now about how to care for them. They're a lot more work then you would think. They are in no way boring, or throw away pets, or just your average change the food everyday and they'll live kind of pets. No no no, if that's what you thought when you got the hermit crab (or your planning to) then you are horribly mistaken. There's so much to their care, and their supplies aren't the cheapest either. To get you started here's what you'll need.
-AT LEAST a 10 gallon glass aquarium- you can't have any less than that.
-Bedding (4-6 inches and damp)- The best is to mix Eco Earth and play sand, NOT "Hermit Crab Sand" or "Calci-Sand" just regular play sand from your hardware store works best.
-Heating- For a 10 gallon tank it's best to have the Zoo Med Reptile Heater AND the Zoo Med Hermit Crab Heater, this will keep your temperature at a good 77 to 80 degrees which is good because the needed temperature is 75 to 80 degrees, the closer to 80 degrees the better.
-Humidity- Same goes for Humidity 75-80%, the closer to 80% the better. A good way to provide humidity is to create a moss loft. To do that you buy a shower caddy and some suction cups, and you suction the caddy to the top of your tank, but not so high that your hermit crabs can escape. Then you put some moist moss in there and place a climbing toy that leads up to the loft so the crabs can get up there. Mine absolutely love their moss loft.
-Gauge- to measure temp and humidity
-Two water dishes- Hermit Crabs require both fresh and saltwater so you'll need a dish for both, NO SPONGES!
-Sea Salt- Instant Ocean Sea Salt works best
-Food Dish- Feed Fresh foods only, never "hermit crab food" Go here for more info on that: http://www.hermitcrabworld.com/hermit-crab-food-diet-list/
-Hideyhuts- Hermit crabs are nocturnal and like a dark place to sleep during the day, you should get at least two
-Climbing toys- Hermit crabs are excellent climbers so you should have at least two climbing toys. Choya wood works great
-At least three hermit crabs- Hermit crabs in the wild travel in groups of up to 100 so it's good to have at least three so that if one goes down for a molt the other one will still have company
-At least 3 spare shells per hermit crab- hermit crabs like a large selection of shells to choose from so you should always have three per crab to avoid shell fights. Don't ever use painted shells!!!
If you have any questions, feel free to email me, just click on my avatar. Good luck!(:
Wow okay, first of all let me correct the answer before me, they are NOT boring. If you treat them properly which clearly you DON'T by what you just answered, they are very active animals and a joy to have. Now about how to care for them. They're a lot more work then you would think. They are in no way boring, or throw away pets, or just your average change the food everyday and they'll live kind of pets. No no no, if that's what you thought when you got the hermit crab (or your planning to) then you are horribly mistaken. There's so much to their care, and their supplies aren't the cheapest either. To get you started here's what you'll need.
-AT LEAST a 10 gallon glass aquarium- you can't have any less than that.
-Bedding (4-6 inches and damp)- The best is to mix Eco Earth and play sand, NOT "Hermit Crab Sand" or "Calci-Sand" just regular play sand from your hardware store works best.
-Heating- For a 10 gallon tank it's best to have the Zoo Med Reptile Heater AND the Zoo Med Hermit Crab Heater, this will keep your temperature at a good 77 to 80 degrees which is good because the needed temperature is 75 to 80 degrees, the closer to 80 degrees the better.
-Humidity- Same goes for Humidity 75-80%, the closer to 80% the better. A good way to provide humidity is to create a moss loft. To do that you buy a shower caddy and some suction cups, and you suction the caddy to the top of your tank, but not so high that your hermit crabs can escape. Then you put some moist moss in there and place a climbing toy that leads up to the loft so the crabs can get up there. Mine absolutely love their moss loft.
-Gauge- to measure temp and humidity
-Two water dishes- Hermit Crabs require both fresh and saltwater so you'll need a dish for both, NO SPONGES!
-Sea Salt- Instant Ocean Sea Salt works best
-Food Dish- Feed Fresh foods only, never "hermit crab food" Go here for more info on that: http://www.hermitcrabworld.com/hermit-crab-food-diet-list/
-Hideyhuts- Hermit crabs are nocturnal and like a dark place to sleep during the day, you should get at least two
-Climbing toys- Hermit crabs are excellent climbers so you should have at least two climbing toys. Choya wood works great
-At least three hermit crabs- Hermit crabs in the wild travel in groups of up to 100 so it's good to have at least three so that if one goes down for a molt the other one will still have company
-At least 3 spare shells per hermit crab- hermit crabs like a large selection of shells to choose from so you should always have three per crab to avoid shell fights. Don't ever use painted shells!!!
If you have any questions, feel free to email me, just click on my avatar. Good luck!(:
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